Château Haut-La Péreyre, Haut-Benauge
|Country & Region||France, Bordeaux|
|Founded||Olivier is the sixth generation to manage the estate. He took over in 1994.|
Château Haut-La Péreyre produced its first vintage in 1891 in the lieu-dit of Péreyre, back up in the pastoral hills of Entre-Deux-Mers. It sold its wine in bulk to négociants over the years until Olivier Cailleux’s parents began estate bottling in 1974. Olivier himself was given keys to the domain in 1994 after completing his enology studies and doing internships in South Africa, New Zealand, and at Cos d’Estournel. He is the sixth generation to manage the family’s affairs.
In these hills during the Middle Ages the local lord established his digs at the nearby Château de Benauge, which served as a fortress during the endless skirmishes of The 100 Years War. It was the last bastion to fall to the French when they won the war in 1453 and finally drove the English out of Aquitaine. Pictured on this page with Olivier, Benauge gave name to the appellation of Haut-Benauge, created in 1955 thanks to the local hillsides and limestone soils as a superior zone for whites within Entre-Deux-Mers. The appellation is reserved for both dry and sweet whites — red wine falls under the larger umbrella of Bordeaux Supérieur — but both colors do equally well here. This zone is located in the hinterland behind Cadillac, a river town that still retains its fortified walls and looks straight across the river at the appellation of Graves. (A short aside: The Cadillac Motor Company was named after Antoine Laumet de La Mothe, sieur de Cadillac, a French explorer who was born near Cadillac and who founded Detroit. The Cadillac logo is based on his coat of arms.)
Today, Olivier farms 51 hectares (126 acres) of grapes at Château Haut-La Péreyre. All in all, he makes a range of wine under several labels: red, white, rosé, even crémant; sells in bottle, in bag-in-box, continues to sell some in bulk (to the négoc), and he attends wine fairs on weekends to hawk his wares direct to consumers. As such, he typifies the ranks of petits chateaux, the class of unheralded small farmers who account for so much of the wine made in Bordeaux. There’s little in the way of bells and whistles to announce their wines, but they can be some of the best values in Bordeaux—and France—today.
Olivier reserves 22 of his 51 hectares (54 acres) for the production of his two most important wines, the Haut-La Péreyre red and white. Those 22 hectares (54 acres) represent his finest terroirs. The red varieties make up 16 hectares (39.5 acres) and the white varieties constitute 6 hectares (14.5 acres).
|Haut-La Péreyre rouge||Roughly 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon||Aged in tank, normally bottled without fining and bottled with only a light filtration. Unlike so much of inexpensive red wine today, this is not an industrially produced wine that tastes like fruity Kool-Aid. This is a domain wine with an aromatic profile of graphite and earth that speaks clearly of Bordeaux. 5000 cases annually.|
|Haut-La Péreyre blanc||Roughly 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sauvignon Gris and 15% Semillon||Bone-dry. Wine is not fined or cold stabilized (if tartaric crystals form, then Olivier would rightly tell you that it's a sign of quality). 2,000 cases annually.|