May 26, 2023

Chevalerie featured in Jon Bonné’s The New French Wine

Domaine de la Chevalerie is featured in Jon Bonné’s The New French Wine:
Domaine de la Chevalerie, a historic property dating to 1640, has become one of the great hopes for Bourgueil in recent years under the guidance of siblings Emmanuel, Stéphanie, and Laurie Caslot. (The progress made Stéphanie’s death in 2021 all the more poignant.) Their family has owned the estate through the centuries, and while the latest generation has ushered in biodynamics, the winemaking principles have remained constant to produce long-aging, classically styled examples. In the cellar, fermentations are indigenous and aging is relatively brief and in larger old wood casks, which provide a transparency of sorts to the single-parcel wines. Diptyque is the entry-level wine, with about six months’ aging in mostly concrete; it’s fragrant and pronounced in its noble, vegetal cabernet franc-ness. Galichets is, no surprise, from lower, stony soils, the vines up to eighty years old; it’s more dark-spiced with an almost Lebowski-like chill in its fruit. Chevalerie moves to clay=heavy soils, invoking a weightier but silken texture. And Busardières is from vines dating to the 1880s on even denser clay high up (below only Peu Muleau), making it broader in texture and more intense in tannins.