July 22, 2024

The Beauty of Aging Non-Vintage Champagne: Lilbert Perle

From John Gilman’s View From the Cellar (May-June 2024 issue) in an article entitled The Beauty of Aging Non-Vintage Champagne:

Lilbert-Fils “Perle” Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV (Cramant) Base Year 2015 : I love the wines from Lilbert-Fils, who are one of my favorite two estates in the grand cru village of Cramant. Their Perle bottling is their oldest vine cuvée, with the wine bottled at a slightly lower pressure as well. The 2015 Base Year Perle is only forty-five percent from this vintage, with forty-five percent of the blend hailing from 2014 and the final ten percent from older reserve wines. It was disgorged in the fall of 2018 and finished with a dosage of five grams per liter. Today the wine is starting to drink beautifully, offering up a bright and supremely elegant bouquet of pear, golden delicious apple, brioche, a touch of almond, a beautifully complex base of chalky minerality and a topnote of white lilies. On the palate the wine is crisp, focused, full-bodied and complex, with a lovely core, excellent mineral drive and cut, refined, delicate mousse and a long, beautifully balanced finish. At nine years of age, this is still a pretty young wine and will be even better with further bottle age. Fine juice. 2024-2045+. 93 points.