At the beginning of every year we do a pilgrimage through France. Two cars, eight people, a start in Champagne with a journey down through Chablis, the Côte d’Or, Jura, Mâcon, Beaujolais, the Rhône, Provence, and an end in the high scrublands of Languedoc. Some years back, the family at Coupe Roses took us to the market in Narbonne for lunch, and it’s become part of the routine, part of the tradition (along with Françoise Le Calvez’s enormous dish of cassoulet and the midnight winter swim in the Cesse), a highlight we really look forward to because Narbonne, ancient though it may be, isn’t much of a tourist town. Consequently, its market is so very authentic. Photos are courtesy of North Carolina’s Jeff Bramwell (for more of his work, see jeffbramwellphoto.com).